Chapter 4

CHARLESTOWN TO NEW YORK

To

      Miss Ann Mylne

          at M^r Robert Selby’s, Baillie Fyfe’s Closs,

                                             Edinburgh, North Britain

New York 1^st. March 1775

My Dearest Nanny

I wrote you from Charlestown to inform you I had commenced that long journey I had plan[n]ed in the back country—I left that town the fifth of Jan^y last, crossed Cooper River* with my horse and poor Mungo. I had rode about twenty miles when the road parted in two, I took out a map I had of this province to examine which to take, the crumpling of the paper stratled [sic] the horse, who leaped fairly out below me. After I got up I saw him galloping through the woods; at a mile’s distance he came out again to the road, a traveller catched him and brought him back. My saddle bags in his career had come of[f], I now thought I should be obliged to return as the few shirts I had were there. I went into the woods, tracing the tract he had taken as near as I could, by the greatest good fortune after an hours search I found them. I now proceeded on my journey to Georgetown,* which I reached in two days and a half, most of the land all the way very indifferent, being pine barren except in some places where there were indigo plantations.

I crossed the ferry to Georgetown, and here to my great sorrow it was I lost my poor dog. A man had come over in the same boat with two horses, who had travelled all that day with me, he went by the back of the town, I to an inn as I wanted to see the place. I imagine Mungo had followed him thinking me in company. When I missed him, I went to the ferry where I found the negroes who had brought us over, they told me the dog had come back and that when he could not find me he run they knew not where. I offered a reward for finding him but all would not do. The sheriff of the place happened to be in the house and seeing me so uneasy promised to take care of him in case he could come across him at any time, for I had pointed out his virtues as the man did his ass in the S——l journey.¹

Georgetown is pretily situate at the junction of several navigable rivers, it carries on a considerable trade having many great plantations for rice and indigo at its back. Many of the houses command fine prospects, there may be about 500 houses in it, several considerable merchants resides here. Thinking to overtake the man who I now imagined Mungo had followed (for he had told me that he was to go the same road) I set out; just as I was on horseback a gentleman came up and told [me] a Doctor Gibb* wanted much to see me, I asked how the doctor knew I was in the place, he said it was from him he had learned it, for he had seen me in Charlestown and knew me again. He said the doctor was a school fellow of mine and wished much to see me. I could not think of dismounting, expecting to overtake the man whom Mungo had followed. I beged excuses and set of[f], I understood afterwards that this Doctor Gibb was one of the most considerable men in the town, had a large plantation with many negroes and the best practice of any in his proffesion in these parts, but who he could be I could never recollect. I pushed on to Black River* where as it was a ferry I hoped to get intelligence. No such person had passed; if the man stole him, he had certainly taken another road on purpose. I now gave him over as lost and went on my journey with a heaveness about me I had not felt for some time before.

My road for two days was very disagreable through swamps, I crossed several rivers in flats.² I came at last to the boundary house where the line runs that divides the south and north provinces. I had intended to lodge there all night, the family were from home, I took possesion of a large hall in which was a good fire and some negro servants. When they came back, entered the Master, a decrepid wretch, I asked for lodging; he said I was welcome for myself but would have nothing to do with my horse, I told him my horse was what I minded more than myself. Nothing would do, I could not help saying some severe things upon his want of hospitality, I got up and went to the stable when I found my poor creature turned out, I was within little of returning to abuse the scoundrel. Although it was near night I set out, the moon was clear, I rode about 10 miles, I tried to make a fire but everything was so wet with the frost rind I could not; at some distance I found a path that led to a house, I went there, the people were a bed but got up and let me in. They were poor and had but one bed, I laid myself before the fire and slept like a top. The landlord next morning was going to Brunswick* and we set out together.

Brunswick is pleasently situate near the mouth of Cape Fear River,* it is a poor place and irregular built. They have a large church without a parson and a house which was once the residence of the Governor. I set out for Wilmington,* which is at the distance of 17 miles further up the river. I was told to keep to the plainest road, at 10 miles the road seperated in two, I took the broadest. There was mile posts upon it, I rode to the 20th, when I found I was wrong. I turned of[f ] through the woods to catch the other, I wandered about till eleven a clock at night when I got upon a path that led to an old field where was a cabbin wanting the roof, into it I put my horse, and having secured the door I laid me down to sleep. It would not do, it was a strong frost and exceeding cold. At day break I wandered about in search of a road, often obliged to get of[f] my horse and lead through swamps; after near five hours, I got to the same road I had left the night before, I rode down it till I came to the 15 mile post, then struck again into the woods to find the other, I came to a path that led to a house where I was told I had been twelve mile from the place I intended to go to. I got to a tavern where I refreshed, I crossed tow [two] branches of Cape Fear River to get to Wilmington. Upon the northernmost stands this town, it is a place of considerable trade but from its situation must be disagreable in summer, it stands on a bed of sand inclosed every way with high sandy grounds. It is chiefly composed of two streets crossing each other, the one running parralel to the River. The market place, with the Town House above, stands in the place where the two streets meet; this was a capital error as it interrupts the prospect every way. What is mostly exported from this place is tar and turpentine, staves and lumber, indeed the country I had rode through is fit for nothing else being mostly pine trees. They have convenient wharfs to load the ships, their are flats³ some miles below the town from which they can only take in part of their loading till they pass them, the rest being sent down in boats. I was told the tide flows 100 miles above this place, where there is a fine country, well setled, many of our country people is there, amongst the rest Flora M^cDonald* with her husband Barrisdale.*

I forgot to mention I saw Murray* of Philliphaugh at the tavern I came to after my severe nights quarters, he was on his way to Georgia to setle there, having sold his interest in this province; he was well dressed and well attended but I understood was much hated on account of his pride.

After a stay of two days to rest my horse I set out for Newburn* which I reached in three more. In going into the town I was much surprised at the sight of a very fine house, I found it was the Governors. It was by far the largest and most elegant I had seen in America, it is built upon the plan of Buckingham House* with offices joined to it by a collonade; it is really handsome and well proportioned, it is of brick and cost about £15 000 sterling. By accident I fell in company with the man who was both Architect and superintended the work,⁴ he was brought over by Governor Tryon.* In conversation I turned upon the house which I much commended. It is natural for people whose hobby horse is flattered to open their hearts, I appeared much surprised that a man of his merit should lived [sic] buried in a small town, he said it was his case that he had married there, that he had effects in land etc. which he could not turn into money, that Governor Tryon when he went to the government of New York caused him move there, that he staid there nine weeks without any encouragement. I thought all this bad heartning to me.

Newburn is pleasantly situate at the junction of two rivers the Neuse* and the Trent,* it is much like Charlestown with regard to situation but has the advantage in not having those nasty marshes nigh it which is so prejudicial to the health of the inhabitants of the other. Here is the seat of Government for North Carolina. In going down the river are marshes which obliges vessels only to take in a part of their cargo at the town, the rest being sent after them in boats. The exports from this are much the same with Wilmington, tar, pitch, turpentine, with provisions for the West Indies, staves and lumber.

I left New Newburn [sic] and to avoid a large ferry I rode up the country for Tarrborough,* I crossed Neuse River, from this in two days travelling I passed much good land and many plantations; much indian corn is raised here, there is likewise made tarr and turpentine. In several little rivers were many schooners loading corn for New England and the West Indies. I crossed the River Tarr* on a long wooden bridge at the end of which stands the town of Tarrborough, it is a poor dirty place, every step a horse makes he is up to the knees, it was so at this time being rainy weather for some days before. In tow days more I reached Roanoke River.* The day before I had taken up my quarters at a tavern on the road about 20 miles short of it. A Virginian who came up persuaded me to go along, as it was early I agreed, he had a friend he said at some distance where we could lodge; when we got there no such person was to be found. We set out in search of a lodging from some of the neighgbouring [sic] planters, the first we got to was a widows who could afford nothing for our horses, we rode on and got to a plantation of one Coll. Mumford’s,* there was no one there but an overseer and his wife with some negroes, they had but one bed, the man was sick. Here we staid all night lying on the floor with a good fire at our feet and our saddles for a pillow.

Next morning we crossed Roanoke, this is a fine river with much good land on its banks which is subject to be overflowed in heavy rains. A town called Hallifax* stands about 8 mile higher up at which a good deall of business is done. Here I parted with the Virginian, I next crossed the Meherin, a small river half a mile from which is the line that divides the provinces of North Carolina and Virginia. I lodged here at a widows plantation, who I so effectually co[a]xed by stories of my travells that both myself and horse were well taken care of. Next morning she insisted for me to stay breakfast, I told her my business was express but that I would call as I came back, I began to think she harboured a favourable opinion of me not from my pretty person but from the strange stories I told. Avasthauling,⁵ no matrimony. She had a good plantation 7 or 8 stout negroes and 4 children, she was about thirty, in her person neat and clean, well looked. I proceeded and crossed the River Ottoway* on a wooden bridge at a place called Southampton Courthouse.* Here I saw some of the remains of an Indian nation called the Ottoways, they are now dwindled to about fifty and are setled nigh this place. The imoderate use of rum has been the occassion of it, one of their women not long ago was drunk and no one nigh her, she tumbled into the fire and was burnt to death.

In two days travelling I came to Williamsburgh* the capital of Virginia, it stands 4 miles from James River.* This is a noble river, where I crossed it it was three miles and a half broad. Williamsburgh stands in a level country and consists of three streets running parralel to each other, the principal one in the middle and is near a mile long, at one end stands the Capitol facing down the street, as the College⁶ does at the other. The Capitol is a large building with a portico of two stories. Upon the top is a cupola too small in proportion to the building. My landlord having procured the keys we went together—in the Hall stands the statue of Lord Botetourt* their late Governor for whose memory the people of the province have a great regard, it stands on a pedistal inclosed with iron rails, it is dressed in robes such as the Peers⁷ wears, with a wig tied behind and stiff curls. I who had seen so many statues dressed in the Roman and Grecian manner was shocked at the want of taste, I suppose the sculpture [sic] had dressed it so to please his employers; for a man in the company at the house when I returned observed it was a fine statue for it was highly polished. In the lower part of the building was the Hall; the Assembly Room seated as the House of Commons is in England, with a Chair for the Speaker at one end; the Court where causes are tried. Above stairs are the Council Room, several Comittee Rooms, rooms for the Grand and Petit Juries. In the Council Room is a library mostly consisting of law books, it is convenient for the business required. The College is a large building divided into several classes for the students on the lower floor with a chapel where prayers are read evening and morning; the second and third floors consist in appartments for the masters and students.

The principal street in this town is almost a level from one end to the other, their are several neat houses in it although none grand; upon one side at a little distance is the Governor’s house with an area before it. It seems to me as if additions had been made from time to time, as the province had encreased.

Williamsburgh will never be a large town, it stands so far of[f] the river. Merchants and planters live on the banks of rivers where vessels comes to their doors. Their is a town about 50 miles of[f], Norfolk,* which from its situation is become a large trading place, standing on James River farther down. Lord Dunmore* was gone there with four Shawnese chiefs he had brought as hostages from his late expedition; he had a new born daughter christned the other day by the name of Virginia and gave a ball on the occassion, it was the Queens Birthday. He is not liked in his government—the late Governor I imagine was your old crony Betsey Tomson’s father.⁸

I staid two days in Williamsburgh and then set out for Maryland. To avoid crossing the Great Bay of Chesepeak* which is a ferry of 21 miles I rode up the country, I crossed several rivers amongst which were Potowmack* and Rappahanock. I must observe that most parts of Virginia is well cultivate and well peopled. The inhabitants have in a great measure given over the culture of tobbaco and raise wheat which is bought from them by the merchants of Pensilvania, who convert it into flour for the West India and other markets. Great numbers of Scotch are setled in these parts both as merchants and planters.

After 5 days ride I got to Annapolis,* this is a pleasant situate town, yet a new one called Baltimore* further up the country carries away the greatest part of the trade. It is built upon no regular plan, the streets many of them being winding. They are building a State house which is very large and of brick, it is but just covered in, has a cupola on it not finished. It is designed for the meetings of the Assembly, Courts of justice, councils, etc. They have already been four years in building and I imagine it will take as much more to finish it. The people of Maryland like those of Virginia are leaving the culture of tobacco for that of wheat.

After a days stay I set out for Pensilvania, I passed through Baltimore which is new, it has encreased in a few years from a few houses to a considerable town, much larger than Annapolis; the streets are not as yet paved, and the great concourse of waggons have cut the ground every where so that in many places a horse goes to the belly. At some distance are considerable iron works and many Dutch are settled here.

I had fallen in with a man and wife the day before, they were young and fond of each other, they had a child seven months old, dont you think it strange for women to travell long journeys a horse back with a child in their arms, it is common in this part of the world. I had taken a great liking to the child as it never cried, although it was frost and snow, it was always merry and laughing when we got to the side of a large fire. They carried it time about, and once handing from one to the other, the father missed his hold and the poor thing fell to the ground, his horse went right over it. I who have a heart as soft as butter for the weak and helpless jumpt of[f] my horse, when I came to it I was almost afraid to touch it lest it had been killed. I took it up, it looked at me and fell a crying, I felt for the poor mother who sat on her horse quite stupid, the father was little better. I examined its legs and arms and found all safe. I had taken a great liking to this couple, they were young, handsome and fond of one another without fulsomeness, they seemed in easy circumstances; as I had done them some little services, the husband when crossing Susquehana River* in the flat came up, took me in his arms and beggd I would go and stay eight days at his house. I refused him. We were to part on the opposite side. When I went to bid his wife farewell by a friendly shack [sic] of the hand he insisted I should salute her; this done, we went different roads. It is amazing the connection that some people forms almost instantly which is not to be done by others in a whole lifetime; we had travelled two days together and although it was a hard frost and snowed almost constantly we were as merry as crickets, we made good way too for we travelled near 80 miles.

In a few days I came to Philadelphia, in my way I passed through many pleasant villages in a fine cultivate country. Indeed here a man travells as much at his ease as in England, there being good inns and good beds, proper accomadations for ones horse, a great difference betwixt this and to the southward where I have road thirty miles without seeing a house. Through the northern parts of Virginia and along Maryland the planters in general live much at their ease having good estates and good houses, but in Pensilvania one is as it were in the best parts in England, it is a fine country if the people would be good.

Philadelphia is by far the finest laid out town I have ever yet been in. The streets cut one another at right angles; it is pleasently situate on the River Delaware,* where are many large wharfs to which vessels of any size can ly. They are indebted for this plan to their great founder Will^m Penn.* Although the town is large, one half of the plan is not yet compleated, it is intended to go as far as a river called Schuyl Kill* which is at the distance of two miles from the Delaware. There is a want of variety, a likeness runs through every street in the town, few spires are to be seen. They have the finest market in the world, the roof stands upon brick arches, the stalls are on each side with a walk in the middle; it is at least half a mile long; there is plenty of every kind of meat, fish and fowl, sold very reasonable, this is one of the greatest trading places in America. I sold my horse to a man that had travelled the last days journey with me, I made some profit upon him. I parted from him with great reluctance, he was an old friend that had kept me company in my solitude in the back woods, he had carried me many thousand miles. One of our best English horses could never have undergone the fatigue of this journey.

I left Philadelphia after two days stay and set out in a passage boat for Bordentown* 30 miles distant, there were many passengers, we run it in four hours. We staid at this village all the rest of the day and night, next morning we got into waggons, ten in each, we travelled 40 miles to South Amboy,* here we lodged. Next morning we embarked in the stage boat for this place, it was evening when we arrived, I lodged in a tavern, next morning I took private lodgings. Thus I put an end to a long journey, tho’ an agreable one, many people wonders how I could venture it by myself, but I am never subject to fear.

I wrote all this from my memory for I durst not keep a journal, in many places they talked of spies being out, I was afraid I might be taken for one, if a journal had been found I should have been tarred and feathered, an honour the Mobility* sometimes confers on those they apprehend are friends to Government. As to politicks I think most of the people are mad, in South and North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, they muster and are every where learning the excercise as if they were going to be attacked. In South Carolina they have several companies in uniforms, very gay, being scarlet faced with black velvet, their artillery company is blue faced with scarlet, gold buttons holes. They were raising two Companys of light horse when I came away. At Williamsburg their uniform is blue faced with buff. In the back parts the[y] have several companies whose excercise is shooting with rifled guns at a dollar fixed to a tree at the distance of 120 paces, these are the most dangerous, being accustomed to fighting amongst the trees with the Indians they are very dextorous, I have seen one of them take of[f ] the head of a hawk at the distance of a hundred yards with a single bullet. In Maryland they muster every where, I could get no sleep for some time at Annapolis for the noise of their drums and fifes excercising in an old playhouse closs by where I lodged, they make use of the night as well as the day. In Pensilvania and this province there is no mustering. This people are divided in two parties, how these sons of Mars will behave in case they come to blows I cannot say, but am of opinion with an old Irishman whom I met on the road as we past a muster field (he was one of the Hearts of Steel* and was obliged to leave his country about that affair) that one third would run away, one third be killed, the other hanged. Trade is in a manner stoped, the other day a ship was sent back that had brought out goods from England, another that lies here will share the same fate.

I have wrote a long letter, but I could have added twice as much had there been room. I must say something about my own situation. I have been near a fortnight in this place, as far as I can judge I have not any prospect of being employed as an architect, these troublesome times have put a stop to building, and even if it was otherwise I am afraid it would not do unless I was to turn undertaker,⁹ of that I have had enough. Besides I have no stock to begin with. The people here are frugal being mostly Dutch decendants, the undertakers gives the plan and does the work. There is no taste; what is cheapest done is the best. Could a few hundred pounds be saved from the wreck of the bridge I would be a planter, it is that manner of life I prefere, one is thene independent, but I am afraid it will not do. I shall however stay here till I have a letter from you that shall determine me how to act, I would fain hope my affairs are setled. Inform me of every thing that has happened, how his honour behaved in his last excursion to Scotland, I hope in God he has not insulted you any more, I have wrote him a few lines that I am here, to know if there are any papers requisite for me to signed [sic] upon his account, to send them out. I wish much I was disentangled from him, and then our correspondence shall cease.

I beged of you to execute a commission as by a memorandum sent upon M^r Mackays account, I hope you wont neglect it. Remember me in the warmest manner to the Selby family, I believe Bobs brother lives here, were I in another situation I would wait upon him. Take care I am not embarassed that way, it would be no credit to him and vexatious to me, were I known. You say Livingston is much my friend, I am glad of it as he has much in his power. Remember me to him. My best respects to your friend Miss Strange, let me know some news of our acquantances; who carries the bill in the architect way.

Since I wrote the above I waited on a merch^t in this place and showed him my letter of credit, he said no one would take my drafts as I was unknown (I knew this as well as he), he desired me to send Mess^rs Mansfields letter to Kinloch and Hog, and desire them to send a credit upon someone in this place, this I have down [sic] and have desired them to send me a credit for sixty pounds. Of this I shall be very frugal and shall draw but for little at a time, if I could fall into any way to maintain myself I would addopt it as it gives me the greatest pain on your account to be spending money and doing nothing. It will be about four months before I can have an answer from London, my money I have here will hold out till then. My long journey took from me more than I wished for. Writers vaunts in their books of the hospitality of the natives but I can say I never eat a meal of victuals but one that I did not pay for the whole journey. It may be necessary to acquant M^r Millar* with this transaction. There is a packet goes from here every month, you will hear from me often. What would I give for an hours conversation with you.

Direct for me to the care of Mess^rs Walter and Thomas Buchanan’s,* Merchants, Queen Street New York. May God preserve my Dear Mother and you. Farewell

Will^m Mylne

Remember me to Little Willy

[on verso] Write immediatly for I long to hear from you.

1. William’s long journeys with only Mungo for companion bear a marked resemblance to those of the German, in Laurence Sterne’s A Sentimental Journey (1768), who made a pilgrimage with only his ass to the shrine of Saint lago in Spain. Weeping over the ass’s death when nearing home, he praised him as an almost human friend.

2. Wide flat-bottomed boats or rafts used as ferries.

3. Shoals or mudflats.

4. John Hawks.*

5. A word apparently coined by William. Possibly referring to the hauling in of sails.

6. College of William and Mary.*

7. The noblemen in the upper house of the British Parliament.

8. This seems mistaken. Botetourt was the late governor, and the only recent governor who had a daughter named Elizabeth (or Betsey) was Robert Dinwiddie. She died unmarried in 1773. Betsey Tomson cannot be identified.

9. Building contractor as distinct from architect. Mylne was architect and “undertaker” in the Edinburgh bridge project.